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When Do I…? (back to top) Q: Can I trim my butterfly bush now? Will it kill it? A: Most plants can be trimmed at any time without killing them. However, there are better times to do certain plants. Plants that bloom on old wood such as rhododendron and dogwood should be trimmed after they bloom so you won't be cutting off a potential bloom bud. Plants that bloom on new wood -- such as your butterfly bush and most perennials -- can be pruned severely in the early spring if desired and you'll still get good bloom. Evergreens such as holly, yews and so on, can be pruned throughout the growing season. If you prune to late in the season, you may stimulate new tender growth that will get frozen in the winter.
Q: When can I plant a hosta? A: Anytime. Seriously, most container grown plants can be successfully planted anytime. Just remember the basics of transplanting: Good soil mix backfill, water as needed. Balled and burlapped plants also can be planted just about anytime, but you may need to take a little more care. Digging up a plant that is established in the ground and transplanting it is another story. Do this when the plant is dormant, late fall through early spring.
Q: When is the best time to plant grass seed? A: Late summer through early fall. The next best time is early spring. Fall has warm soil, warm days, cool nights, dew in the morning, usually adequate rain, less weed competition. You also can plant dormant seed in the late fall or winter, such as sowing seed on top of the last snow.
Q: When is the best time to fertilize my lawn? A: Three or
four times a year: early spring, late spring, early fall, late fall.
If you are only going to feed your lawn one
Q: When should I fertilize shrubs and trees? A: Early spring and optional feeding in the late fall.
Q. How about perennials and annuals? A. Fertilize your perennials in early spring and late spring. For your annuals, treat them throughout the growing season. Use slow release one time or use water soluble every two weeks ln general, feed when the plant is growing, Organic slow release is always good, water soluble is good and fast, but doesn't last.
Q: When should I deadhead my azaleas and rhododendrons? A: Remember, once they've finished blooming, you need to deadhead them. About 70 percent of their energy goes into forming seeds. And here's a tip: Just use a broom to lightly dislodge the dead blooms on your azaleas. The rhodies should get the gloved-hand treatment.
Q: How often should I water my garden? 
A: It depends. The needs of plants vary with heat, humidity, existing soil moisture and soil conditions. There is no set answer. In general, most plants will do well with an average of one inch per week. Newly transplanted plants require more water more often because they don't have their roots established yet. When you water, make sure you really saturate the root zone. Don't "tease the plant" with trivial amounts that only wet the surface. Common sense prevails. Stick your finger into the soil. Is it dry? Then water. Look at the leaves. Are they wilted? Water. Q: I'm investing a lot of time and energy in my garden this spring, but I'm afraid a drought this summer will just undercut all my efforts. Any suggestions? A: A bunch. First, space your plants close together, so the leaves from neighboring plants will shade the soil. Also, weed diligently, because weeds compete with your plants for water. And plan to water your garden early in the morning to reduce evaporation. Meanwhile, on your tomatoes, remember to strip most of the leaves once the green tomatoes get some size. That'll keep water going to the ripening fruit. Q: Is it very difficult to construct a pond in my garden? A: Thanks for asking. The Lavalette Nursery electronic magazine has just completed a special edition all about water gardening. Enjoy!
Q: I want to put something under the bark mulch that will totally prevent weeds. Should I use plastic or weed barrier fabric? A: Neither! Plastic is terrible for most plants. Fabric works well for pebbles or other inorganic mulches. It keeps it from sinking into the ground and does permit water and air to pass through. It also does a good job of keeping most weeds from coming through. However, bark mulch on top of fabric will begin to decompose and create a perfect environment for weeds to grow on top of the fabric. Weed roots then grow through the fabric into the soil. When you try to pull the weed, you will pull up the whole fabric. Use Preen on the soil , mulch adequately, pull weeds as they appear or spot spray with Roundup or Finale. You will never totally eradicate weeds. You can only hope to control them.
A: Amend the
soil with good organic material such as compost, peat, manure, etc.
Don't use sand. Use perlite or clay soil conditioner. Build raised
beds with amended topsoil if the problem is real bad. Or if the
soil is real bad,
Q: I think of composting as an outdoor production, but is there a compost I can make for my indoor potted plants? A. Yes! Here's the recipe for a compost tea that you can make right in your kitchen. Start by filling your blender with water to within a few inches of the top. Now add in a cup of compostable kitchen garbage, such as vegetable peelings or coffee grounds. Mix it at a high speed until the organic matter is very fine and suspended in the water. Just pour the mixture onto your container gardens or potted plants.
Q: How do I get rid of moles in my yard? A: Many things have been suggested to control these over the years. Poison gas cartridges that you ignite and put in the tunnels, Juicy Fruit chewing gum (the moles eat it, but can't digest it so they die a slow painful death with a tummy ache. How would you like that on your conscience?). Soil insecticides kill grubs so the moles don't have a food source -- and move over to your neighbor's yard. Mouse traps are sometimes baited with peanut butter set over the ridges and then covered with a bucket. I believe the only really effective thing is to use a mole trap that is set in the active run. They work. They're safe. Most people think they have hundreds of moles tearing up their yard, but usually there is only one or two. Moles are fiercely territorial. Don't confuse moles with voles. Moles only eat meat -- that is, worms and grubs -- while voles eat roots and plants.
Q: How do I deter deer? A: Plant things they don't like to eat -- but there aren't that many and if the deer are hungry enough, they will eat anything. Here are some ideas: Use fencing such as plastic mesh or electric. Use strands of fishing line, the deer can feel it, but they can't see it, so they are frightened. Use anything that smells like a human. They hate our smell, hair, dirty socks. Radios turned on to loud rock music, soap. The list goes on and on. There are some really good repellents out now that do work, such as Liquid Fence. Bottom line: There are way too many deer out there and the herd needs to be thinned.
Q. How to I get rid of bag worms? Spider mites? Those dreaded Japanese beetles?! Good questions! We just prepared a special report on these bugs that are particular fond of our area. Click to read specifically about Japanese beetles, spider mites or bag worms.
Q: I have a plant that just won't bloom. What am I doing wrong? A: Does it get
enough sunlight? Most blooming plants need good sun to form bloom
buds. Have you fed it? Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, the
middle number, to promote blooms. Did you prune it improperly? If
you cut off the Q: Any ideas for how I can stimulate new growth on my rose bushes? A: Sure. Try this. Around each bush, pour a tablespoon of Epsom salts in May and June along with your regular monthly feedings. Q: I've got a shade garden where I would like to encourage some moss to grow. How can I do that? A: Here's a special recipe for moss. In a blender, put a half cup of garden moss and a cup of buttermilk. Mix at medium speed until the solution is smooth. Now sprinkle the mixture on prepared soil where you want the moss to grow.
Q: I want to plant a groundcover that will crowd out all the weeds and grass, is evergreen, blooms all summer, never needs any maintenance and is cheap. What is it? A: There is no such thing. Ground covers can be the solution for some areas, but they do require maintenance, especially the first year. It will need to be babied a little. Water, weed, feed.
A: When digging, build up rather than dig down. Just go one blade deep and mix in compost or sphagnum peat. Your plants will be just as happy, and so will your aching back. Also, remember to kneel while digging. By kneeling, you'll use your arms rather than your aching back.
Q: My bulbs are coming up, it's going to get real cold tonight. What can I do? A: Nothing. Mulching will protect somewhat, but it will cause the plant to grow more and probably get nipped later. Most bulbs are quite adaptable. They will actually recede back into the ground if it gets cold. Worst case scenario: The bulb is killed - which is very unlikely -- and you're out … 50 cents. |
time,
do it in the late fall. This thickens it, encourages roots and helps
it start off better in the spring.
move!
bloom
buds, it can't bloom. Did the bloom buds get frozen?
Q:
How can I do all my spring planting without killing myself? Last
year I developed sciatica after a day of shrub-planting?